Hook up car radio to battery
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Car stereo and 12v Battery Straight up
The other is only hot when the radjo key is on, which allows the stochastic from being run on after you've got the key out. Donald Laukkonen is a trade other similar from experience as a background ghostwriter and as the necessity of a higher blog and a government game client.
Most aftermarket head units will use a yellow wire for this. After you have marked that wire and set it aside, turn the ignition bxttery on, turn the headlights on, radoi turn the dimmer switch - if equipped - all the way up. If you find two more wires that show approximately 12V, then turn the dimmer switch down and check again. Most aftermarket head units usually use an orange wire or an orange wire with a white stripe for this. The wire that still shows 12V is the accessory wirewhich is usually red in aftermarket wiring harnesses.
If only one thing ever had difficulty in this goal, it is the applicable wire. If you want a sound like from one of the old, then you have seen where those wires go, and you can exchange the approach for the other three sections. I don't have a 12v russian but I have a 9v.
If only one wire ever had power in this baftery, it is the accessory wire. Check for Ground With the power wires marked and out of the way, you can move on to checking for the ground wire. If you can't locate oHok ground wire batterh, then the best way to locate the ground wire is with an ohmmeter. You just have to connect the ohmmeter to a known good ground and then check each of the wires in the car stereo harness for continuity. The one that shows continuity is your ground, and you can move on. Identifying Speaker Wires Figuring out the speaker wires can be a little more complicated.
If the remaining wires are in pairs, where one is a solid color and the other is the same color with a line, then each pair typically goes to the same speaker.
Radio battery up car Hook to
I don't have a 12v battery but I have a 9v. It should all light up and act like normal, right? To be honest, it depends. If it's a basic radio no extra media features and stuff it'll probably work fine on nine volts, just with reduced range. Also some radios have a protection that won't let it run unless it has the correct amount of voltages so you have enough to start the car with. Yea, you have the wires right, but I've never tried it with a 9v battery. I would recommend a 12v if you can find one. It would light up but not work like it shoud.
I believe I've heard of people using power supplies to test out things like car radios. Comp power supply has 12v Or wire 8 AA's in series, or a 9v and 2 AA's in series. Or touch the wires to a car battery.
Or use battedy spare cig lighter plug hattery wires hanging off, rzdio and connect to a car's cig lighter. Or use a vehicle battery charger or booster box. Or, lastly, find an old cell phone Hopk RC car battery charger that outputs v or so and use that. Lots of options! You can also chain the 9v with a two AA's. If I'm not mistaken, negatives connect to positives and it should cxr as you go through. The red Hoo I would guess is the one you connect to the ignition normally so that when you start the car the radio turns on abttery so when you connect that to the battery you're just turning it on.
Not entirely sure but that's my guess Yes Garry, The Red would go to the ignition and the Yellow would go straight to the battery to power its memory, just to save your radio stations or the last played track number on the CD etc. This could stress some of the components and damage them. If your going to test it only use 12V! I don't see how hooking it up to a 9v would do anything other than not power it It's like putting AA's inside a D cell maglight or something, nothing will happen because there's not enough power. Therefor i recommend a 12v, pop your hood and just touch the wires like you said in your OP, but i honestly, again, don't see how using a 9v would actually cause damage.
I mean it would be kinda like putting dead AA batteries in a remote, not enough juice left, only half the shit works right and even then doesn't work half the time. We're dealing with different things here than a simple remote. I left it on one night, and the next afternoon when I went to drive my car it was dead, and I found my amp fuse blown. The amp has a given amount of power it wants to consume, essentially.
At v it pulls X amount of amps. At 7 volts, it pulls 2X the amount of amps to consume the same power thus popping the fuse. Amp flow that is too high will cause circuits in the radio that are manufactured with only a small tolerance for over current may not be pleased.